Heri Es Souani - Meknes

Hri Souani: Your essential guide to Meknes' Royal Granaries

So, you’ve touched down in Morocco, and perhaps you’re plotting a route that moves past the tourist throngs of Marrakech and Fes. Excellent decision, because you absolutely must put Meknes, the quieter Imperial City, on your itinerary. And once you get there, the top of your must-see list should be Hri Souani, a site so vast and historically significant it honestly feels like a hidden world. Trust us, this place is majestic.

What is Hri Souani? A dive into imperial ingenuity

Forget what you thought you knew about storage rooms. Hri Souani, sometimes referenced as Heri es-Souani, isn’t some dusty old barn; it is a mind-blowing testament to 17th-century architectural ambition and engineering genius. Imagine a time when Sultan Moulay Ismail decided he needed a complex capable of feeding not just his court, but also his legendary army and the twelve thousand horses that served him. That, dear traveller, is what you're walking into.

The original purpose was twofold: it served as an enormous granary, protecting the city’s food supply from both the heat and potential attack, and a stable complex. These incredible, cavernous, stone-built rooms were deliberately designed with walls so thick, sometimes measuring several metres, that they acted as a natural air-conditioning system, keeping the grain cool and dry, a real architectural marvel that makes modern refrigeration look a bit basic. It’s the kind of structure that simply screams power and preparation, a clear message to rivals that this sultan meant business.

Visitor's guide: Exploring the ruins

As you wander through this site, you’ll immediately feel the scale of the operation. The Granary (Hri), the main hall, is utterly stunning. Massive arches and imposing pillars stretch out before you, creating long shadows and corridors that seem to go on forever, making it a dream spot for photographers. Seriously, this place practically begs for a wide-angle lens; the light shafts streaming through the ceiling vents at the right time of day are just pure magic.

Adjacent to the main building, you'll find the Souani Basin (or Agdal Basin), a colossal water tank. It wasn't just a picturesque pond, but a vital part of the Sultan’s infrastructure, essential for irrigating the extensive royal gardens and ensuring a steady water supply, illustrating a level of logistical foresight that is seriously impressive.

Planning your visit: The practicalities

To make your trip to Hri Souani smooth and totally hassle-free, here are the essential logistics you need to nail down before you go:

• Getting there from Fes: Meknes is about an hour away, making this an ideal day trip. Catch a comfortable ONCF train (highly recommended) or charter a grand taxi directly from Fes.

• Getting there Locally: Hri Souani is located just outside the old Medina. From the main city gate (Bab Mansour), grab a petit taxi or prepare for a leisurely 20-minute walk.

• Parking a rental Car: You should look for supervised car parks (parkings surveillés) near the large public square Place Lalla Aouda or the exterior walls of the nearby Royal Palace. You’ll pay a small, fixed fee to an attendant, giving you peace of mind for your vehicle.

• Entrance fee: The current, exact price is 10 Moroccan Dirhams (MAD) per person (about $1 USD or less).

• Payment: This is an ancient site, not a high-tech museum, so cash is absolutely essential. Ensure you have small denominations of Dirhams ready; credit cards are a firm no-go.

• Best time to visit: Aim for the late morning or late afternoon. The light streaming through the roof vents is magnificent for photos, and the exterior walk is cooler then.

• Dress code: Always practice respectful travel. Dress comfortably for walking, but opt for modest attire out of cultural consideration.

Nearby attractions & First-timer advice

If you are making the journey out to Hri Souani, it would be a shame not to turn this into a comprehensive day exploring the best of Meknes and its immediate surroundings. This Imperial City is packed with accessible, world-class attractions. Here are six essential stops for your itinerary:

Bab Mansour Laâlej: Often hailed as the most beautiful gate in all of Morocco, this truly majestic archway is the undisputed landmark of Meknes. It's an absolute photographer’s dream, showcasing the incredible artistry and scale of Sultan Moulay Ismail’s building ambitions. You simply have to snap a picture here.

Place El Hedim: Located right next to Bab Mansour, this vast central square is Meknes' bustling heart, somewhat like a smaller, more relaxed version of Marrakech's Jemaa el-Fna. Grab a mint tea, watch the street performers, and soak up the local atmosphere as the city life unfolds around you.

Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail: A crucial stop for any history buff. This is the resting place of the powerful sultan who made Meknes his capital, and visiting offers a rare glimpse into a functioning, sacred Moroccan religious site. The craftsmanship and tiling inside are breathtaking, though remember to be respectful and dress modestly.

Heri es-Souani Royal Stables Ruins: Right beside the Granary, these are the original foundations of the colossal stables that housed the sultan's legendary cavalry. Walking through these vast ruins, you get an even deeper sense of the sheer scale of the historical complex and the military might of the Alaouite dynasty.

Medersa Bou Inania: While Fes may have the more famous one, the 14th-century Medersa in Meknes is a jewel of Merinid architecture. Prepare to be wowed by the intricate wood carving, the meticulous zellij (tilework), and the peaceful central courtyard. It’s a quiet, reflective counterpoint to the city’s bustle.

Volubilis Archaeological Site (Day Trip): A short drive from Meknes will transport you out of Morocco and straight into the Roman Empire. This UNESCO World Heritage site features some of the most stunning and well-preserved Roman mosaics in North Africa. It’s an essential trek for anyone who appreciates ancient history and provides a welcome contrast to the Islamic Imperial City architecture.

Hri Souani isn't just a pile of historic stones; it's a profound, atmospheric glimpse into the immense power and logistical genius of Imperial Morocco. It truly stands on its own, offering something structurally grand that the chaos of the bigger cities simply can't match. Whether you visit for the sheer photographic beauty, the cool, quiet escape, or the mind-boggling history, make sure you put this majestic granary at the very top of your Meknes itinerary. So, grab your camera, slip on those walking shoes, and prepare to be genuinely impressed by this lesser-known Moroccan treasure. You won't regret carving out time for this one!